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The other side of the moon - Mikula (Cape of St. Nicholas)

Lokva (Ledenik) - Church of St. Nicholas - church of St. Nicholas - Lokva (Ledenik)

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The Other Side of the Moon is an area in which three trails of stone enchantment intertwine, offering exquisite views of the mythical Croatian massif Velebit, the azure sea, bare stone crags and the blue sky. Each of these trails has its own story, a series of intriguing details from Pag’s history and unique stone vistas that could have only been shaped by nature. If you set off on any trail, you are guaranteed enjoyment and relaxation, because the trails pass by Ledenik, the loveliest and most interesting geological and paleontological zone on the island of Pag, and possibly unique in the entire Mediterranean.

The Other Side of the Moon is something that you’ll find nowhere else, except perhaps on the Earth’s actual Moon.

 

This lovely circular trail begins on a macadam road below Lokva, near Ledenik, and leads to the small Church of St. Nicholas (Mikula) and Punta Mikula (Cape of St. Nicholas).

The small cove provided a safe harbour for ships and their crews when the mighty bora winds blew (which is prone to gale-force gusts here). This is why Punta Mikula is also called Punta spasa (‘Cape of Salvation’). The secluded small church was built in the 14th century in honour of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of seafarers, and it is possible that the church was erected by the crew of a vessel that found a safe harbour from bora winds here. There was once a port facility with berths here, and the remains of the waterfront can be seen in the sea.

The actual cove was probably used as a terminal for the offloading of cargo, particularly livestock, and there are pens nearby that were used to quarantine the animals. Besides livestock, there was also a quarantine facility for people here, where sailors traveling to Pag and its port had to stay due to the risk of infectious diseases.

There are a number of sunken ships in the sea offshore from the Church of St. Nicholas, as well as the remains of ship cargo from the 16th century, traces of a steamship from the 19th century and the remains of a German naval vessel from the Second World War, which visitors find extremely intriguing.

Another interesting detail is that the cove served as a location for the very popular television series The Terror, produced by Ridley Scott and inspired by the true story of the H.M.S. Erebus and H.M.S. Terror, research vessels that disappeared in the Arctic ice almost two centuries ago while on a mission to discover the legendary Northwest Passage.

Pag’s stone dunes – fields of incredible stone formations – will captivate you and take your breath away. Every day at sunrise and sunset, the shadows they cast seem to play some sort of game known only to themselves, which can best be viewed from two vantage points on the trail.

For refreshment in the summer months, we recommend swimming in the sea at Punta Mikula itself, where there is a small beachfront and lanterna (lighthouse).

starting point
finishing point
Lokva at Ledenik
44.46881, 15.04816
trail time
1:15 h
Lokva at Ledenik
44.46881, 15.04816
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